I’ll be the first to admit that I’m a small town boy at heart. So something like The Greenbrier resort in West Virginia is pretty much another world to me, and certainly above my pay grade! In fact, if my wife and I had not received an invitation to stay at the resort in 2008 (at a steep discount), there’s no way we could have afforded it. But, having expressed an interest in writing a travel article about a once top-secret bunker located beneath the resort, in 2008, we were invited to visit The Greenbrier and experience some of its amenities first-hand, including a tour of the infamous Cold War bunker.
Now, usually, to me, the word “amenities” means a swimming pool, maybe a hot tub and probably a “free” breakfast that I often regret eating. At The Greenbrier, however, amenities are taken to a whole new level. Here, if you have the money, you can enjoy falconry, horseback riding, carriage rides, fly fishing, archery, a bowling alley, glass blowing, Jeep and off-road vehicle rentals and a gun range, plus a luxurious spa, private casino and world-class golf courses—just to name a few! Also, each day before dinner at one of the resort’s five-star restaurants, a Mint Julep Cocktail Hour is offered free of charge. I’m usually just happy to receive a free cookie when I check in to a hotel!
The exterior of the resort is reminiscent of the White House or something from ancient Greece, and boasts a striking white facade accented with stately columns. Surrounding the main structure are meticulously landscaped, colorful gardens that add to the resort’s picturesque appeal, starting at the front gate and encompassing nearly every nook and cranny of the property.
Upon entering the resort, guests are greeted with an atmosphere of timeless elegance and luxury, not to mention a cornucopia of different colors and decor around every corner, from the grand lobby to quaint sitting rooms and long hallways lined with priceless paintings, sculptures and furniture. Everything shines and looks like it was polished that morning, which it probably was!
The rooms, likewise, are elegant and luxurious. To this day, I’ve never stayed in a more comfortable bed in my life!
For people who have visited Biltmore Estates in North Carolina, the best way I can describe The Greenbrier is that it’s like being able to stay the night and walk freely around the Biltmore mansion and grounds. It’s a real treat!
Because of all of this, some notable people who have stayed at the resort include about a dozen U.S. Presidents, celebrities like Bing Crosby, Elizabeth Taylor and Frank Sinatra, athletes such as Tiger Woods and Arnold Palmer and billionaires Warren Buffett, Steve Jobs and Bill Gates, just to name a few.
During our visit, the very friendly staff at the resort allowed us to choose two amenities to enjoy. We chose the spa and (the reason we were there) the Bunker Tour.
What's a Bunker Doing Beneath a Luxury Resort?
As we learned on our tour, in 1958, at the height of the Cold War, President Dwight D. Eisenhower initiated Project Greek Island. This was a top secret plan to build a bunker beneath what the public thought was a grand, yet mundane expansion of The Greenbrier resort, then owned by the CSX Corporation. The resort had existed in one form or another for nearly 200 years at that time, so an expansion (known as the “West Virginia Wing”) was nothing unusual. In fact, it made for a great cover story.
The purpose of the bunker (located 720 feet beneath the new wing) was to create a secure and secret relocation facility where members of Congress (and their support staff) could be evacuated to in the event of a nuclear attack, in order to ensure the continuity of government. The President and Vice President would be taken to different locations, which have never been disclosed.
The bunker could sustain about 1,000 people for approximately 60 days. It included living quarters, meeting rooms, a communication center, a clinic (apparently loaded with anti-depressants and valium), a cafeteria and a decontamination room that each visitor would pass through before entering the living space. The facility was designed to be entirely self-sufficient. It contained its own power generators, water supply and air filtration system, all of which are stops on the tour, as are the various living and working areas and the massive tunnels that were built to reach the bunker!
The Greenbrier was chosen because it is located in a mountainous and secluded area, yet it’s relatively close to Washington D.C. It also contained the necessary infrastructure to operate such a facility, not just the amenities of the luxury resort, but also a rail line nearby and an airport located about five miles away. Many people believe Eisenhower’s love of golf also played a role in the decision.
Many of the details about the actual construction process are still top secret, but we do know that the bunker was in full operation by the early 1960s. It was so secret that even the workers at the hotel had no idea it was there, or at least never said anything about it. Instead, a small group of people disguised as television repairmen (actually Federal agents) maintained the facility. These agents were trained to perform basic television repairs and maintenance tasks for the actual resort, but their primary role was to ensure that the bunker’s true purpose remained concealed. Members of Congress were informed about the facility, but were sworn to secrecy.
Everything was going as planned until 1992 when a former employee at the resort leaked the location of the bunker to a reporter from the Washington Post who then wrote a front page article exposing it. However, as you learn on the Bunker Tour, this “leak” was actually done on purpose because the facility had become outdated and a new one was needed. Nobody knows where the new one is, but if you do the research, it seems like it might be somewhere else in this remote part of the eastern United States…
After being exposed, the bunker was immediately decommissioned and, three years later, the U.S. government was no longer involved with The Greenbrier. Based on the public’s fascination with the bunker, by the mid 1990s, tours began being offered at the resort, and continue to this day.
Pictured Above:
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A rendering of the bunker beneath the new hotel wing.
Pictured Below:
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Construction of the building in the late 1950s.
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The tunnel being built in the 1950s.
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A bomb-proof door guarding a tunnel to the bunker.
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What a congressperson’s room would look like in the bunker.
Public Bunker Tours
Rooms at The Greenbrier go for anywhere from $320 to $3,545 per night. The highest priced “rooms” are actually estate houses located on the sprawling 11,000-acre property, yet close to the massive resort. The “Greenbrier Suite” (four bedrooms) is the highest priced room inside of the actual resort at $2,514 per night.
Thankfully, there is a way to experience The Greenbrier, its grounds and its bunker in a much more affordable way. This is by making reservations to take the Bunker Tour. In fact, there are really only two ways to enter The Greenbrier property. You either have a room reserved, or you reserve a Bunker Tour. Other than that, you’ll be turned away at the front gate, long before the actual resort comes into view.
The cost of the 90-minute guided tour is $47 for adults and $24 for youth, although no one under 10 years old is allowed on the tour. (There is no photography allowed either). With this paid reservation, guests are able to enter the property and walk through the corridors of the resort, as well as to visit several historical and interesting landmarks on the property, including the historic President’s Cottage (also known as the First Summer White House and built in 1834), the 19th century spring house and the Chapel of the Good Shepherd. Once inside of the resort, a guide leads guests to a 25-ton blast door (built in Hamilton, Ohio) and then through the bunker. Many areas have been recreated to resemble what it would have looked like during the Cold War.
Along with commentary from your guide, there are various museum-like exhibits to view during the tour.
(Above photos by Matt Bayman)
Staying at the Greenbrier
If you ever have a chance to stay at The Greenbrier, even if it’s only to see how the other half lives, it really is an unforgettable experience. Along with access to the private casino and award-winning golf courses, some of the free amenities for guests include a night club, indoor pool and croquet course, and there’s actually a lot to do with children of all ages. Some of the other paid amenities include an Aerial Adventure Course, Alpine Climbing Tower, bike and e-bike rentals, the Debunked Escape Room, yoga and guided hikes. You can spend a fortune, or just enough to catch a glimpse of the luxury, mystery, and wild history found at “America’s Resort.”
Learn more and book a room or Bunker Tour now by visiting greenbrier.com or by calling (855) 453-4858.